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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.